And before everyone jumps up and down (when we are going to point out that the rods should be at least 2.70m long to be even remotely considered suitable for beach fishing), if you have just a 6 ft rod paired with whatever old-style reel and that's how you enjoy your day in the surf- then go your hardest ! No one is going to stop you. Do whatever makes you happy.

What we're trying to cover here is how you should go about your surf fishing if you are serious about it and expect to have consistently good results. Every time.

Sure, tides play a key role. Same with the bait. But technique and gear are an important part of your arsenal that you need to look into and understand thoroughly- so you are prepared on the beach for whatever the challenge.

Because every time you go out there (even if it's the same spot), everything changes. Wind, temperature, tide and even the location of the gutters change. Same with the resident fish. And your gear should get you out of trouble and in the zone as many times as possible.

What is the minimum length for surf fishing rod?

I would describe as a suitable surf fishing rod, one that is longer than 3m. Ideally, longer than 3.60m. 

Most modern surf rods today are at least 3.60m or longer. Usually 3.90m-4.50m, with some exceptions on both sides of this range.

What we should ideally use? Personal preference plays a big part. But not only. It is important to consider what casting technique one can employ, what sort of action a rod must have and what casting weight your rod should be able to deal with.

Surf fishing rods can be classified in two categories: 

1. beach quiver (or ledgering) and 
2. surf casting rods.

Both can be in either telescopic or two/three part versions.

Beach Quiver/ Feeder Rods

Beach quiver/ ledgering rods, similar with the feeder rods have lengths between 3.90m to 4.50m and cover casting weights usually up to 150-180g. More often 80-150g, and have interchangeable tips - making them extremely versatile for a lot of fishing conditions.

Most of these rods have 2-3 tips, usually full carbon or fiberglass and sometimes with different colored markings on, and you just change the tip depending on target species and technique. Say, you're after some mullet, whiting or bream- you will use a lighter and more sensitive tip with appropriate weights and you will change when you want to go after tailor, gummies or mulloway. Equally you can change tips when you want to fish a low energy beach or a high energy one or when the fish is finicky or quite aggressive. It gives you a lot of options.

The majority of these quiver rods can also be used when fishing from the rocks or from jetties and are perfectly suitable for fishing with floats. And of course they can be used in rivers and estuaries too.

Beach feeder/quiver/ledgering rods can be found with cork, Duplon and neoprene handles and as either one handed or two handed rods. Because of the varying techniques that can be used for and different interchangeable tips that they are supplied with- these rods have 6-8 guide rings on the first 3 sections and 4-5 smaller ones on each tip. This allows for greater control and for proper load distribution when casting, retrieving or when fighting a fish.

Some beach ledgering rods are more one-handed feeder like (see an example here for feeder-like rods: DAM Whisler and others similar to dedicated surf rods, two-handed long range rods with multiple quiver tips ( see an example here in the excellent Sunset Paloma

Surf Casting Rods

Now moving on to "actual" surf rods. As mentioned earlier you can have one handed surf rod or two handed. To go the distance - you will need two handed rods. Personally I always use two handed surf rods. It suits me best as I can use both hands when catapulting the bait past the breakwater. 

If you want a two handed rod that allows yo to cast maximum distance but then when fighting a fish to be like a one-handed rod, then you need a rod with adjustable reel seat. 

An example of such rod would be DAM Backbone Surf. 

These dedicated surf rods have developed tremendously in the past 20 years. Nowadays all good surf rods use minimum 24 Ton carbon and quality SIC guide rings. Most advanced ones use different high modulus carbon mats from reputable producers (Toray, Mitsubishi, Reglass, etc) impregnated with special resins (to allow the blank to have specific actions, reduced weight and increase flexibility) and supported (at times) with other materials such as fiberglass, kevlar or...graphene. Some major producers have even employed patented techniques or special "in-house" methods when building their rods ( Helicore technology - Sportex, Pro Force ULAF- Colmic, Technifibre- Sunset, etc.). And most surf rods are fitted with guide-rings and reel seats from reputable suppliers such as Fuji, SeaGuide, WeBo, PacBay, ALPS, etc.

As we discovered earlier, the vast majority of the dedicated surf rods have a minimum length of 3.90m with usual lengths between 4.20m-4.50m. Sometimes even more (see the exceptional COLMIC Antarex 4.60m ). Casting weights are generally between 80-250g. Once again more powerful rods (able to deploy 300, 400 and even 800g- casting weight limits) can be found.

Perfectly suited to fish high energy beaches or for monster fish with live baits.

What surf reels should you pair them with? 

Which ones are suitable? Most modern surf fishing rods are designed for spinning reels (sizes 5000 and up). We do not bring any "old-hat" rods that can be used for side-cast reels. 

But, once again- follow us as we will soon have in stock long cast surf rods (14ft) for trolling/overhead reels...!

Casting Surf Rods

In terms of casting and detecting abilities, it all depends on what you're after. 

For long cast, I would probably go for 4.20-4.50m long rods and for "power" blanks, full carbon, fitted with "Vector" or "Normal" LC guides. 

For high detection ability, I would prefer a hybrid tip and "Low Rider" guides. 

The difference between "Vector", "Normal" LC and "Low Rider" guides is that the "Vector" and "Normal" LC guides usually have a bigger diameter of the first (starting) guide, usually 35-40mm (the "Vector" guides are usually curved forward, towards the tip and the "Normal" LC are straight, perpendicular on the blank). These guides and arrangement(s) are perfectly suited to a more "classic" style of fishing with bigger diameter monofilament lines. But they work well with braided lines too.

The "Low Rider" ones are better suited for low diameter mono or for braided lines as they have a slimmer diameter; they are usually like a V-shaped reverse trigger (with the ceramic ring on the tip of the V), 2 or 3 legs and the first guide-ring is always facing the reel in this arrangement, while all the others are pointing towards tip of the rod.

An example of a modern surf rod with "Vector" guides is COLMIC Ventura, "Normal" LC guide rings can be found on rods such as our high-quality DAM SALT-X Surf Expert, and the superb SUNSET Fantasia Hybrid is equipped with "Low Rider" guide-rings.      

Concluding:

• Surf rods can be divided in two major categories:

1. Beach Ledgering/Quiver/Feeder rods
2. Dedicated long cast surf rods

• Both types usually come as either telescopic or 2-3 pieces rods (plus quiver tips in case of Beach Ledgering rods) and can come as a one-handed or two-handed rods
• Both types have usual lengths of 3.90-4.50m with some going all the way to 3.60m (lower end) and 5.00m (upper end)
• Both types are designed to be used exclusively with natural baits. Not for spinning lures.
• Casting weights for Beach Ledgering Rods are between 40-220g, with usual CW between 60-120g. And 3 x dedicated quiver tips designed to cover separate ranges ( 60-80g, 80-100g, 100-120g) and fishing techniques. Similar for other beech feeder rods, with different casting weights ( if not specifically marked, every tip should cover 1/3 of the CW range the rod is designed for)
• Casting weights for Long Cast Surf Rods are between 80-250g. Usual CW are 100-200g and 100-250g. Casting weight includes bait and sinker (optimum load- where the rod performs best is usually 25-30% less than the maximum casting weight). But there are rods that go up to 300g, 400g and 800g. The later is for fishing with live bait on the surf for big sharks, rays, grouper and other trophy fish
• Producers use when building these rods several types of materials for their blanks, from 100% fiberglass to mix-carbon and full carbon. The most advanced rods use minimum 24 Ton carbon and SIC guides.
• Best surf rods use higher modulus carbon impregnated with resins and other supporting materials and the blanks are created using proprietary techniques to increase flexibility, reduce weight and have specific actions (dedicated for different fishing and casting techniques).
• All beach ledgering rods are suitable only for side cast techniques. While all the long cast surf rods can be used for side cast as well, some have been designed to be used for ground cast techniques and even for pendulum casting.
• Any of these rods are either fitted with 5-8 (more if adding the guides on the quiver tips)  "Normal" LC, Vector or Low-Rider guide-rings. More advanced rods use better guide-rings (and reel seats) from Fuji, SeaGuide, WeBo, ALPS, PacBay.
• Some long cast surf rods come in two variants: power and hybrid. The power range can be used with thicker monofilament lines and have a stronger blank while the hybrid variants use Low Rider guide rings (for braided lines or thinner diameter mono lines) and have a hybrid tip to increase detection. So less powerful, but more sensitive.

These days a lot of folks are looking at surf rods to go beach fishing. Asking me what surf rod is better than the other...And it amazes me just how easy it is to get confused by this term. Basically, any fishing rod that is (or can be) used from the beach could be described as a surf fishing rod. After all, that's what you're doing, right? Casting a line in the surf...

Then why is it so hard to choose the best and most suitable surf rod for beach fishing?

Well, to start with not all surf rods are born equal. Some are shorter or longer than the others, some are stiffer, some have a more flexible tip.

But let's back up a little bit and agree on something first. Surf is something that happens on the beach. So, we should start by looking at what we should do on the beach. What techniques should we apply. In what circumstances. And, of course, How.

So, now let’s just start by dividing the beach or surf rods into two main categories:

1. The first category would be those surf rods that are specifically designed to be used with artificial lures and baits;

2. A second category would include those specially/purpose-built surf rods designed to perform on the beach, in the surf – casting at long distances natural baits (worms of all sorts, pippies, squid, prawns, fish fillets, etc. as well as live bait).

Today, we'll cover the first category, surf rods that are specially designed to be used with artificial lures and baits.

Any rod that we use in the surf, on any beach (whether low or high energy), regardless of designation (artificial lures or natural baits) would need to be at least 2.70m (9 foot) long. I see people using 2.10m or even 1.80m rods from the beach, waist deep in water with waders, neoprene or whole wetsuit on - using brute force- trying to compensate and somehow cast where the fish bite.

Sure, if it's winter, you're going for salmon, you're into surf and have a spare wetsuit but you don't want to spend money on longer spinning rods, then OK. Go for it. Same if you enjoy sitting in those frigid waters, purple lips and all and go for the same or tailor. Your small rod with a shiny silver spoon or blinker will probably do the job and land you a decent fish. But you struggled. With stoicism. And despite all of that, you didn't quite enjoy the part between fights. But we all salute you. For your conviction. And hard work.

And please don't tell me that when the summer comes you'd actually prefer to go all the way in to cast a lure.

Simply put, you cannot outmatch a fellow fisherman that has a longer rod. He will cast faster, more often than you, reach difficult spots easier and most likely he will out-fish you. I dare saying nine out of ten times.

From the boat or a tinny or dinghy, sure you have a better fighting chance. We'll talk about that in another article.

But from the beach or even rocks, I think we should settle for "longer is better".

So, how long your surf rod for beach fishing should it be?

Well, we've all agreed that 2.70m (9 foot) is the absolute minimum. Regardless if that rod is for artificial lures or for natural baits. Minimum would be 2.70m. Now it all depends on what technique you'd employ when targeting some specific species.

Spinning is probably a little bit more limiting in a certain sense. And when we talk about classic spinning, that means cast and retrieve techniques. Artificial baits. In that sense, I would think that 2.70-3.30m would be ideal to cast a lure (spoon, blinker, hard baits or soft baits of any sort), with a 3.50m a maximum.

This will help you deal with the wind and you'll be able to deploy your artificial bait at the desired distances regardless of weather. Not to mention it is a little less punishing on one's personal fishing technique.

Going longer than that it will become more taxing on your wrist, forearm and shoulders as the rods become heavier. It will be more difficult to retrieve hundreds of times as it is more complex to manoeuvre a longer rod. And it can actually backfire in a big way if you encounter some difficult conditions (gusty winds, side to side, choppy waters, seaweed and algae covering areas of interest, etc) as you will get tired faster and be less effective and efficient on the water. But manoeuvrability is key. Longer is more complex.

So, I would recommend a 2.70-3.50m rod length, all full carbon rods when beach fishing. The rod should be light, say something like 200-300g weight and capable of casting weights of anything between 5g to 100g or more, depending on what lures you are planning to use.

I always recommend carbon (graphite) surf rods for spinning techniques.

Why?

Because you have to launch the lure and retrieve hundreds of times and for the same length the rod differences (in weight) could be quite substantial. Sure, you can look and say, hey- I am OK to pay for this fiberglass rod 60-70$. I am happy with it. But a 3.00m fiberglass rod with any decent action is at least 40-50% heavier than the equivalent carbon fibre one. And in a couple of hours that can amount to many, many extra Kgs pulled from your shoulder and forearm. That leads to fatigue. And not being able to enjoy. These days- if you truly are a spinning aficionado or even specialist- it is not even worth it to consider anything lower than mix carbon with full carbon blank the option to go to. The higher the blank modulus (sometimes), the better.

You might say "Hey, you do have on your website many spinning rods that are either shorter in distance or longer...". Indeed, that is true. The spinning designation means nothing else than those rods are designed to be used with spinning reels for different "spinning" techniques. Artificial or natural baits. But shorter rods are designed to be used from the boat or in from the banks on estuaries, lakes or rivers. Perhaps some jetties too. Longer are needed from the beach. And we are covering only the later in this article.

So, now that we talked about spinning rods designed for casting artificial lures (from the beach, in the surf), let's see what we could pair those with.

What reels to use with surf rods (casting artificial lures) for beach fishing?

Ideally, it should be up to 4500-5000 size reel. Probably best 2000-4000 sizes. What should we then use, and how?

First of all, we need to understand that the reel selection is linked with the rod type and casting weight (matching rod). If you go for the normal spinning fishing rod with:

• 15-50g (and anywhere between those margins or thereabouts) casting weight limits, then a size 2000-2500 would be more than enough and will balance your rod nicely.

• 30-60g casting weight for your rod, again I would probably go for 2500-3000 size.

• 40-80g or 50-100g c.w.- more than 3000 size reels (3000-4000),

• more than 100g you'd need to look for 4500-5000 size. 

But then your outfit becomes again really heavy and you should ask yourself what you are actually doing and what do you hope to accomplish by throwing such heavy artificial baits straight into the surf. 

Casting further away? You should know that even if you hit the gym every morning it is taxing for your body to wrestle a 400-500g rod (if you go higher in casting weight capability, the blank becomes thicker- as the walls are thicker and thus heavier) with a 500-600g reel (again, the bigger the size, usually the heavier it becomes). For hours on end. Good workout perhaps. Question mark on enjoyment though...

But if you truly must cast long distances with big and shiny spoons, then fine. Go at least for the lighter rod that you can find, 3.00m or over, HM carbon and light guide-rings (SeaGuide, FUJI or Titanium SIC). Pair that with a light reel (carbon body and rotor, etc.) and try to keep it within the 400-600g altogether. Don’t forget that the weight of your hard bait/soft bait adds to the complexity of your fishing experience, is more taxing with your technique and will increase fatigue; as not only that you will hold a heavier outfit when you cast and jerk the metal but a 150g spoon retrieved in the water for 100m or more at a time for hours on end is not everyone’s cup of tea.

That being said, it can be done. We are today blessed by the availability of technologies previously used in aircraft and fast cars; these amazing materials (high and intermediate modulus carbon blanks, nano technology, Kevlar, boron, epoxy resins, etc) are now used in many rods coming from reputable manufacturers worldwide.

However, when choosing “your weapon of choice”, keep in mind that - the longer the rod and the heavier the casting weights - it would require a substantially more expensive higher modulus carbon blank (coupled with some excellent fittings and components) paired with an equally good reel to allow you to truly enjoy a spinning session in the surf.

Summarizing what we’ve said before, for artificial lures (whether hard or soft) spinning in the surf, you need to:

• Choose a rod with a length ranging between 2.70m to 3.50m (at the most). 2.70m-3.30m ideal rod length             
  
• The longer the rod, look for higher modulus carbon blank construct. I would go for (minimum) TC24 (24Ton carbon) for rods that are 2.70m-2.90m. TC30 (30Ton carbon) for rods 2.90m-3.20m. For longer than 3.10m-3.20m try getting TC36 (36Ton carbon or higher), with a preference for something like >TC40 (40Ton carbon- high modulus)
• Try to get your rod fitted with quality components throughout. SeaGuide, Titanium SIC (by WEBO or Kigan), Alps, PacBay or Fuji being the best rings available (there are differences here as well, for example XOG guides from SeaGuide or Torzite from Fuji- but let’s not split hairs for the time being). These components are usually suitable for use with both mono or braided lines.
• What you want is fast action, so you can reach longer distances and strike immediately to set the hook. Medium-fast works shorter lengths, but as the blank becomes thinner, longer and higher modulus (thus stiffer), the faster the action should get.
• Look for reputable manufacturers that use high quality carbon matts (Toray, Mitsubishi, Reglass, Helicore, etc) that are rolled with resins, Kevlar, boron or nano-particles for increased stability, balance, strength, rigidity, etc. Look no further than SPORTEX, DAM, BALZER, SAKURA, SUNSET or COLMIC and HERAKLES for ultra-high-quality rods.
• Use quality braided line (4x or 8x soft braided- saltwater and UV resistant). For longer distances use lower diameter braid.
• Pair the rods and reels accordingly. The reels should have high quality carbon or hybrid bodies and rotors (so they are light and torsion-free), 3-8 stainless steel ball bearings, bronze or stainless pinion gear, aluminium spool and power crank. Speed: anything above 5.1:1 will do (depending on type of lures and fishing style)

Rods with casting weights of 30-60g (or similar) can be paired with a spinning reel (front drag or rear drag) size 2500-3000

An example here of rod and reel: Rod, something like:

BALZER MK IM-8 DOUBLE STRIKE SPIN 2.70m (10-45g and 20-75g) (https://adoretackle.com/balzer-mk-im-8-double-strike-spin-2-70m-10-45g-and-20-75g-2-10kg-carbon-two-tips-spinning-rod/) or

the superb SPORTEX BR3012 Black Pearl 3.00m (35-59g) (https://adoretackle.com/sportex-br3012-black-pearl-3-00m-35-59g-4-8kg-carbon-spinning-rods/)

paired with a reel like

DAM QUICK DRAGGER 530 RD (https://adoretackle.com/dam-quick-dragger-530-rd-high-quality-rear-drag-spinning-reel-size-3000/) or

the excellent BALZER MK Adventure Spin 630RD (https://adoretackle.com/balzer-mk-adventure-spin-630rd-high-quality-rear-drag-spinning-reel-size-3000/)

Rods with casting weights of 40-80g (and anything in between) or 50-100g can be paired with a spinning reel (front drag or rear drag) size 3000-4000

Some examples here for rod and reel:

the exceptional SPORTEX CT2703 Carboflex turbo 2.70m (45-76g) (https://adoretackle.com/sportex-ct2703-carboflex-turbo-2-70m-45-76g-6-10kg-carbon-spinning-rods/) or

SPORTEX UL2704 Hydra Speed 2.70m 39-94g (https://adoretackle.com/sportex-ul2704-hydra-speed-2-70m-39-94g-carbon-spinning-fishing-rods/)

can be perfectly matched with the impressive

DAM QUICK 7 400FD 

(https://adoretackle.com/dam-quick-7-4000-fd-size-4000-front-drag-spinning-reel/)

Rods with casting weight bigger than 100g can be paired with a spinning reel size 4500-5000

An example here for rod and reel: Select a rod like BALZER EDITION IM-12 SPIN 105 2.85m (40-105g) (https://adoretackle.com/balzer-edition-im-12-spin-105-2-85m-40-105g-6-12kg-toray-carbon-spinning-rod/) and pair that with a reel like DAM QUICK AMMO 450 FD (https://adoretackle.com/dam-quick-ammo-450-fd-size-5000-quality-front-drag-spinning-reels/)

Your maximum rod and reel (including line) total weight should not exceed 400-600g.

The lighter, the better.

Next article, we will cover natural baits fishing from the beach, in the surf. Types of rods, styles and how to pair those with the appropriate reel.

How to use your Carbon Fishing rods

Carbon Fishing rods are an exceptional alternative to fiberglass and composite rods.

They are at least as tough, if not tougher, and can give you all the fish-fighting power needed to land your next big catch. However, they are more rigid than the fiberglass/ composite rods but also lighter. The biggest benefit is that you can use them all day long without getting tired.

Their blank is more sensitive, so you can easily detect even the slightest nibbles from long distances. Also, you can hook your fish instantly.

If used properly, any good quality Carbon rod can give you a far superior fishing experience; however, if you don’t treat them with respect, and force them, because of their inherent lack of elasticity (especially those that are 100% graphite/carbon in intermediate or high modulus grade), they’ll snap on you and you can miss the fish of your lifetime. However, if you follow the following easy steps and take a minimum of precaution, you’ll be able to use your quality carbon rod for a long time.

Spooling mono or braided fishing line using your Carbon rod

Traditionally with fiberglass or composite fishing rods it has generally been safe to spool new line onto your reel running the line through all or at least some of your guide rings.

However, with today’s modern Carbon fishing rods we strongly advise against such practice, because, depending on how you are spooling line onto the reel particularly if you apply pressure by hand on the line or if you have another person holding the line when you spool in or anything similar, it is possible you could apply too much pressure, bent and then accidentally break your rod. You also run the risk of applying too much force and at the same time accidentally sticking your rod too high up when spooling in.

Especially since the majority of carbon rods are either fast or medium action (only the upper 1/3 rd. of the blank bents or maximum 2/3, not all).

In our opinion is just too risky and any misstep or mishandling of rod/reel/line alignment and force applied can have dire consequences.

We hear of too many people breaking Carbon rods whilst spooling line onto a reel usually with the breakage occurring towards the top of the rod within vicinity of the first 3-5 rod guide rings. This is accidental breakage which is usually not a warranty issue. In general, rod breakage is very rarely a result of a manufacturing fault or design flaw with probably something like 0.05-0.5% of rods being an actual fault. 99.5% of the time rod breakages occur due to angler misuse, abuse or accidental error.

Therefore, in order to avoid breaking your Carbon fishing rod we strongly recommend spooling your new line onto your fishing reel using only the bottom 1-2 guide rings from your rod. Or if you have a 2-piece fishing rod, the guides on the bottom section of the rod, close to your reel seat. Or your use an old fiberglass rod if you really want to insist on spooling the line on your reel using all the runners on the fishing rod, as the fiberglass can handle much more punishment than carbon; then, when you are finished, just take the reel off and place it on your intended Carbon rod.

No matter how long you have been fishing for, how many reels you have spooled up in your life time or how much of an expert you think you are accidents can happen especially with Carbon fishing rods therefore we recommend spooling line onto your reel in the manners advised to avoid breakage of your expensive Carbon fishing rod.

Fishing Using a Carbon Rod in the following situations

Fishing from a Boat

The worst thing that could happen to you while fishing from a boat is breaking your fishing rods or damaging rod guides.

Not that quality carbon rods actually break easily as they are really strong and built to last. However, when on a fishing boat- we strongly encourage you to be organized and have all your fishing gear including rods placed safely when not in use. So, you can avoid people stepping on them or getting hammered by heavy objects. Bruising the rods or their insertion caps (when you have 2 or 3 sections rods) or joints will eventually lead to breakage.

Casting from the Bank or waist deep in the waters

If you just lay the rods around all over the place, expect someone to not pay attention and step on them sooner or later. You should keep them in places where they are easily seen, like on surf rod pods, rod tripods, rod holders or just lean them on your tackle box or chair.

Try to avoid any overhead impediments like hanging branches or wires when casting from the banks. Smashing your rod against hard objects such as tree branches will lead to bruising your rod, significantly weakening that part of the rod blank where it hit another object. Same if you dent or split or crack the joints. Damage may look minimal initially; however, it could result to breakage later.

What you are trying to avoid when fishing from the bank should also applied while you are waist deep into the water.

If you are fishing in saltwater this is much worse, as saltwater or sand can get into the reel, through the reel seat or other tiny gaps. So, try to avoid letting your rod sit in saltwater while setting up the hook in your bait.

The Fight

A. Fishing from a Boat (sometimes from a pier or jetty too)

No matter if the adrenaline kicks in or you are desperate to land that one fish never “high stick” your carbon rod. The steepest angle that you should keep your rod at must not exceed 60°- 90° (depending on the rod action, and how rigid it is) when trying to control a tiring fish. Most rods that break during a fight are the result of mishandling or carelessness on the part of the fisherman.

Keep in mind also that any fish weighs more in the water. Not to mention that a fish will wiggle and pound its tail as it tries to escape. If you remember that, most likely you’ll avoid breaking your rod. Many rods were broken because fishermen were tempted to pull their catch instead of using a net. Same when fishing from a jetty or a pier. Avoid lifting a fish this way unless your catch is less than one kilo or so.

Trying to lift heavy fish when the fish is struggling and pounds its tail, puts a lot of load on the rod. This is even harder and riskier when you “high stick” the carbon rod and raise it more than 90° off the water.

The golden rule is to always use a net if allowable, and if you can. This way, you won’t lose your fish and you won’t break your rod. If nothing else, use a glove and try lifting the fish by holding the line. This way you won’t put pressure on the blank.

How to free snagged lures and hooks

The trick in freeing a snagged lure without breaking your expensive fishing rod is instead of using the rod to pull the lure out from the snag, you pull on the line while the rod is pointed directly to the position of the snag.

You have to hold on with the other palm onto the spinning reel spool or with your thumb firmly planted on the bait casting spool. This way you won’t apply any pressure on the rod blank. Please be careful though, because once liberated, the lure or led will come right back at you like a bullet. Again- never pull back the rod at an upward or downward angle, or sideways or in a jerking motion as this will definitely cause a Carbon fishing rod to snap. And your warranty (if any) will be voided.

How to care of the reel seat

Do not use any kind of tool when trying to tighten or untighten your reel sets. The force from your fingers should be enough to do the job. Do not screw in too tight nor too loose.

How to assemble a two or three-section carbon rod

Your carbon rod can usually come as a one, two or three piece rod.

If it’s a two or three-piece rod, make sure that you correctly insert the parts together and align the guide-rings to allow the line to be freely guided when casting.

The two parts that have to be put together have either a spigot joint (male-female/ tongue and groove arrangement) or overfit joints. For spigot joints (A spigot joint involves a short length of lower diameter carbon that slots in the top of the butt section), when fully inserted until fit, you should expect to still have approximately 0.5cm-1cm gap between those two sections. Make sure you do not have more than this as it can break when casting or playing a fish because you’ll effectively form a lever between those parts! The correct way to do it is to rotate one section over the other until tight. Do not push, bang or press. Just firm tight and align rings.

For overfit, make sure that you insert one section at least 4-5 cm (sometimes more) and rotate and align until fit. Make sure it doesn’t move as you’ll have issues when casting.

Maintaining your rod

At the end of a fishing trip, make sure that you clean your rod thoroughly before storing them. UV, humidity, saltwater, sand and sediments can damage your rod’s finish. Store them in a dry place when you’re done cleaning. Once a year, some wax treatment is recommended.

Transporting Fishing Rod

A.Road Trip

Store the rods and other fishing gear at the back of the truck or wagon where there is ample space for them. Make sure that they are carefully packed or taped to avoid rod blanks getting damaged by heavy objects like tools, boxes or spare tire. If possible, separate these things from your fishing gear. Even slight abrasion or damage to the rod blanks or joints can cause breakage when the rod is put under heavy stress during fishing.

B.In an Airplane

Pack your rods individually. Not altogether, If individual packaging is not possible then strap and tape them together, alternating tips and butts to prevent breakage due to abrasion. But, most of all, avoid dropping the rod containers at all cost. Airlines will not take responsibility if your fishing equipment ends up damaged, so take the necessary precaution.

Storing the Rods

A. Boat Storage

1. Having rod lockers in your boat is the easiest way to keep your fishing rods and other gears safe. Just take some precaution against the rods bouncing around and into each other as this can result to bruising of the rod blanks, especially in rough waters. Again, proper care is needed to separate the rods and tuck them in safely.

2. Vertical rod racks is an alternative storage if you can keep them safe from getting hit when casting.

Garage storage

1. Protect fishing rods with heavy tube or rod locker when storing it in a garage. This is to protect them from getting smashed or hit with heavy objects. Do not sit your rods in a corner.

2. Keep the fishing rods away from heat sources. These include water heater and other heavy appliances.

In the House

C. Store the fishing rods in a safe and dry place in your house. Keep them away from heavy objects that can move. Keeping them in their own closet and having them enclosed in heavy tubes is always a good idea.

Summary

Follow these steps proudly provided to you by Adore Tackle and you will get a long life out of your Carbon Fishing Rods.

How to choose Surf Fishing Rod Action: Fast, Medium or Slow Action

When the ocean is very calm, a long rod and heavy sinkers are not so important. I would argue that often, in such conditions, a long cast will probably work against you as you could well be casting over the heads of the fish that could be feeding just behind the first breaker. However, these calm conditions cannot always be expected. They are the exception rather than the rule. It is easy to shorten the distance of your cast in calm conditions whereas a short, incompetent rod will be useless when you need to cast longer distances in demanding situations.

Fast action Surf Fishing Rods

Today I prefer a fast action surf rod. A fast action means that under load, either from casting or fighting a fish, most of the bend in the rod will take place in the upper third of its length. The bottom two-thirds of the blank will hardly bend at all. A powerful fast action rod is much better for distance casting. It will also have the power to spare when casting a slightly heavier sinker.

If you do not have the right technique, a fast rod action might work against you. As such you might want to have a look at a medium-fast rod (where 2/3rds of the rod bends when casting and playing a fish). Proper quality rods use only graphite or carbon materials in intermediate to high modulus and they impregnate those blanks with different resins to allow for further elasticity.

Fast action rods we would recommendare: Sportex Magnus Surf Turbo or the exceptional Sportex Magnus Surf DeLuxe as well as COLMIC MISAR SURF or SUNSET G-FORCE SURF rod. SUNSET Solica Hybrid and SUNSET FANTASIA HYBRID are both fast but then the force is distributed somehow more evenly in the blank as you fight an angry fish.

Medium action Surf Fishing Rods

Medium action rods, you might want to take a look at the SUNSET Seawall 3.60m m or SUNSET Seawall 4.00m rods or DAM Steelpower Surf Red G2 4.20m and DAM Steelpower Surf Red G2 4.50m versions. All excellent options.

Remember: almost all fast and medium fast actions are made out of carbon or graphite.

Slow action Surf Fishing Rods

If you are looking for slow action, then only glass fiber blanks will perform that way. Maybe some carbon-composite blanks as well, but not many. 

If that's what you want, then a DAM Steelpower Pirate or DAM Fighter Pro Surf should be high on your list.

It is worth noting that a good surf rod from a top line manufacturer, such as DAM, BALZER, SUNSET, COLMIC or SPORTEX, will have its optimum casting weight written on the side of the rod blank, down near the handle, between the handle and the reel seat or between the reel seat and the first ring-guide. Usually, there will be a casting weight range displayed, such as 100-200g. To be perfectly honest, I’d be suspicious about buying any rod (surf rod or otherwise) that didn’t display it’s “recommended casting weight” range in this way.

It is also worth mentioning that many anglers believe that the manufacturer has probably allowed for a bit of margin either side of the recommended casting weight range. Nothing could be further from the truth. Following their logic and belief, they stick on a much heavier sinker with disastrous results. How? Well, the rod breaks in half when they try to cast with it. What I will use is something like lower casting weight +15% and higher casting weight -15% as the limits where I feel the rod performing best.

One other important thing we should consider here is that with most rod blanks, the rod will cast better towards the higher end than the lower end of the recommended casting weights. However, a rod that is not properly loaded during casting won’t find you as much distance. Equally a rod that is loaded to the max cannot withstand additional force applied to the blank so you cannot perform with it- for example- a pendulum cast. Going from a 120g to a 150g on a 100-200g rod model will often improve casting distance noticeably. This is because the lighter weight has not been “fully loading the rod”.

Looked at another way when the rod is bent under a load of casting it is acting as a store of potential energy. This energy being imparted into the sinker and bait to propel it forward. If the rod is not fully loaded because the sinker (plus bait) is too light then it is not storing the maximum amount of potential energy possible for that blank.

Obviously, at the outer extreme, a very powerful rod requires a strong fit person to obtain maximum tip speed during the cast. And impeccable casting skills. Without sufficient strength and casting ability, you still won’t be able to fully load the rod even if the sinker weight is a perfect match for that blank.

Surfcasting Fishing Reels

...We will have a separate article coming soon, covering all these types of reels and what to look for when selecting one surfcasting reel

Reels have also become much less expensive in recent years. A fixed spool (spinning reel) is by far the most popular choice for most surfcasters.

A spinning reel is also the best option for a complete beginner to cast and fish with.

You surfcasting spinning reel should be large enough to hold at a minimum 250-300 meters of 0.30-0.35mm (8-12Kg) monofilament. This is about the right line capacity for a surf reel. There are many inexpensive reels of this type available. Surf rod and reel sets can now be bought in for as little as $100. For a better-quality reel that will last a lot longer and perform better see the complete range of surf-casting reels from DAM, SUNSET or BALZER. Any of these reels would be a sound and reliable choice for a surf-casting angler. Carson has also some very interesting inexpensive models that will make many people happy with their choice.

Free Spool Surfcasting Reels

This type of reel will be a tough proposition for a novice surf-caster to master. The spool inside the reel spins when you cast making it possible to cast a considerable distance in expert hands.

Free-spool reels will deliver excellent long-distance surf casting performance. However, you have to keep a couple of things in mind if you intend using one for surf-casting. You need a large model that will hold plenty of heavy line 20-25 lb. Lighter line can easily be crushed and nicked on a stony beach. You must have a quality rear star drag reel which totally disengages the gears placing the reel in free-spool for casting.

I personally love the PROWESS Darkstar 6006 and PROWESS Darkstar 8006 reels. Have an enormous spool, high quality bearings and run as smooth as silk. However DAM Quick Endura 555FS or DAM Quick Dragger 560FS are absolute top choices, exceptional built with only top quality components. You will be well served by any of these for years to come.

Free-spool reels require experience and a bit of thought before casting if you want to avoid the line to get all tangled-up (the dreaded “birds’ nests”). This is mainly caused by the spool revolving around the axis and removing line much faster than the sinker is taking it away. It can occur anytime, from early cast, in mid-cast as well as when your sinker splashes down the water. The way to do it is to tighten the adjustable free-spool rear drag so that the sinker (and bait) only drops to the ground in free-spool if you lightly jerk the tip of therod. When you first get to the beach it is best to slightly overtighten the free spool mechanism, to begin with, make a few casts, then back it off a little at a time. A sinker and baited hooks are more difficult to cast than just the lead because of greater wind resistance. For this reason, it is better to try to cast baits and sinkers of a consistent size and weight. When selecting a free-spool reel remember that a big heavy spool is harder to control than a small lighter one so just pick the one that will do the job, not the biggest out there.

That being said, a free-spool reel should avoided by the complete novice.

Braid or Monofilament Fishing Line

Whilst I still prefer the mono (old school, I know…) I have to admit that in recent years braided fishing lines have all but taken over the market. Unlike monofilament, braid has almost no stretch which means it is far easier to feel a fish biting from very long distances. In other words, it increases your chances to hook the fish.

Braid is much thinner in diameter than monofilament for a given breaking strain meaning you can put more line onto a smaller reel. Fine diameter braid also casts further and cuts through wind and water much more easily than monofilament. Nowadays braid is also much less expensive than it used to be. However, you should pay attention and be careful casting braid with a spinning reel because it can easily cut your finger to the bone!

It is a good idea to wear a finger protector when casting with braid. The best alternative is to use a heavy monofilament or fluorcarbon shock leader at the end of the braided mainline.

Several times in the past weeks we've been asked what type of surf spinning rods would we recommend. There were people that were also curious why there were so few suppliers in the Australian market offering high reel mounts and almost every manufacturer was selling low reel mounts surf rods.

In this article, we will try to cover some of the aspects of surf fishing and what type of rods should you use and when.

There is no general rule as to what makes an excellent “surf rod”. A big portion of the rods available in Australia are nothing more than general purpose rods advertised as true “surf” rods. Some rods have very low mounts to work with sidecast reels, while others are normal two hands low mounts spinning rods, but there are very, very few that are true surfcasting rods.

Which gets us to the definition. Surf and casting. That translates into your rod has to have been purposefully built for (1) saltwater use from the beach and (2) for long casts.

Can you use any rod from the surf? Sure. But that doesn’t make that rod a true surfcasting fishing rod.

Such a rod has a number of distinct properties.

To start with, that rod would have to have a minimum of 3.00m length. Normal ones vary from 3.60m to 4.50m, sometimes even longer. The taller one is (and stronger), the bigger the rod he/she would prefer to cast when trying to reach long distances. Personally, I am 5’11”and prefer 4.00-4.20m rods, but I have a friend that is 6’2” and he swears by his 4.50m surfcasting rod to reach 100-150m casts.

In our opinion, best surfcasting rods would have to be only those with high mount reels.

The biggest problem with low reel mounts is that while they might work reasonably well for medium casts (mostly overhead, under casts and side casts), they are less than ideal when reeling in or fighting a big fish in various surf conditions, as you effectively use one hand and you have no available lever.

The other problem is that ground casts and mainly overhead casts cannot be approached with low reel seat rods.

Casting Weight: In our view, you need to buy a rod that has been purposely designed to cast at least 100 grams (approx. 4 oz.). Anything less than that and you are wasting your time. If you have reasonable swell and tide running in/out, you will need to be able to cast out a heavy lead at a reasonable distance (>50m) that will hold on the bottom. The strong backbone required for such a rod helps you with the cast of the heavier sinker when facing any sort of headwind. At the same time, the bait will also add both weight and wind resistance (and some angular momentum, if not controlled properly) when casting.

Depending on casting weight, true surfcasting rods can be divided in two categories: beach ledgering and “true” surfcasting. Beach ledgering is bottom fishing from the beach using more sensitive blanks. Beach ledgering fishing is different from surfcasting, as the tackle is much lighter and sensitive.

Beach ledgering rods may come as telescopic or multi-piece, but all show a high sensitivity and a maximum casting weight within 130-140 grams, usually around 70-100 grams. Beach ledgering fishing rods are today technically advanced, sensitive and extremely capable and allow us to cover long distances using lighter weights. Just to name a few beach ledgering rods we sell: COLMIC AMANTE MORMORA 4.00m, DAM STEELPOWER BEACH QUIVER 4.20m or COLMIC BLUE WAVE 4.00m

If you have the option to get into “true”, heavy surfcasting tackle, get a rod designed to cast between 150 to 250 grams (5.3-8.8 oz.). At Adore Tackle we have you covered with rods that are designed for very long casts, with immense reserves of power, such as SPORTEX MAGNUS SURF DeLUXE or TURBO or sensitive and more forgiving such as COLMIC MISAR SURF or BALZER DIABOLO VARIO SURF (comes with 2 tips) SUNSET MAGICA SURF or DAM STEELPOWER SURF G2.

Rod Length: As mentioned earlier, you need a rod of at least 3.00 m (9’10”), but preferably from 12 feet (3.60 meters) in length. Depending on how tall and strong you are, and if you have a choice, and can afford it, go for the longer rod possible that you feel comfortable with, when throwing out bait and retrieving the weight. A 14-footer is ideal for surfcasting. Personally, I prefer a 14-foot rod, but many prefer 15 feet ones when fishing the rough surf. Longer rod length is a must for casting any sort of distance. Although, I have found that the longer the rod the greater the leverage advantage you are giving up to a fighting fish, but that is not necessarily the case if you know how to use your two-hands, high mount rod. The most important job your rod must perform is that of tossing your baited hooks and lead out over the breakers and into position. Most experienced surfcasters fish with several rods at the same time. I like to cast out baits on at least 2 sets by two surf rods. After fish with different rods at the beach, you will find you prefer some rods more than others.

Let me start by saying that I prefer much more the term "casting weight" than rod rating. Allow me to explain why. 

Most rod manufacturers these days use either one or the other, or both. But what are they? 

Rod rating is the designed normal line breaking strain (in Kg or Lbs) of the monofilament that that particular rod is best suited to work with.

The casting weight is the led or lure weight interval that the rod is designed to work within. In other words what is the minimum and maximum weight that the rod will allow you can cast at maximum distance. It indicates how the blank can be optimum loaded for you to cast at great distances with maximum control. Usually a figure between the minimum and maximum is the optimal loading capacity of that blank.

In our opinion, it can be deceiving to just have a rod rating for a number of reasons. First, these days the mono line varies greatly in quality and breaking strain. Not to mention that you can use much thinner braided lines which will get you faster to the maximum rod rating. 

Experience shows that a 1-4 kg rod rating will be an equivalent 10-30 g casting weight. A 4 kg max rating will enable you to cast a lure at the optimum distance using mono lines 0.15-0.20mm maximum, which is equivalent to 0.06-0.08mm of 4 or 8 strand braided line. 

However, given the opportunity we can go with 0.10 or 0.12 mm braided line that has a theoretical breaking strain of 5 Kg or more. That will be enough for you to cast much bigger weights than the rod will allow you to. Perhaps 50 or more grams. Chances are if you do this your rod tip will bend and if you try to push and cast that weight, most likely you'll break the rod. The blank will snap. Without knowing what the casting weight should be, there is no way you'd know that you have overloaded the blank. Equally, your casts will not reach the desired distances and the accuracy will suffer if you do not load the blank properly.

A casting weight it's a different matter altogether. You do know that you cannot use lead or lures that are heavier than 30 g nor others that are less than 10g unless you intend to break the rod or pretend that your are casting. Knowing that, if you use 0.50mm line to throw 30 g of led, then it'll be a challenge...to put it lightly. In other words, the casting weight will also limit your mono line to avoid line tangle. Same on the lower spectrum, if you plan to cast 10 g, you'll use some 0.15mm of mono. Something like 0.30 or 0.40mm is useless.

Below, you'll find a table that will "translate" rod rating into casting weight and equivalent recommended mono and braided lines (diameter).

If you want to fish from the shore, passed the first gutter longer distances you definitely need a long cast spool reel. Those reels are more often qualified as surf reels or long cast spinning reels. Some excellent examples will be DAM Surfhammer 360FD, or the SUNSET Sunbeach SW 8006FD. On the later we have a special "take another 15% off " this weekend ( Ends March 20th, 2017) only. If you are money conscious, then look no further than CARSON NEW ANGEL REELS XII 7500.

All exceptional reels, with long cast spools and many quality features.

The best of the best that we have in this category would have to be our BALZER Zammataro 9600. 2 spools, long cast, exceptional quality and features.

For fighting big, aggressive fish such as mulloway, kingfish or grouper you need a reel that has a pretty strong main shaft ( 6-8mm will be required as a minimum diameter, and stainless steel construction). If and when possible, a main drag with carbon washers (or PTFE washers as a minimum) to help with stopping any big fish run.

A 7-10 Kg drag power is what we offer in this category ( more reels will come soon with 20, 25 and 30 kg drag power!). That should be enough for everything up to 30Kg+ tuna. Which is something that most of us aspire to...

What we would recommend then?

Both sizes (7000 and 10000) of DAM Combat are extraordinary reels, and have been just recently awarded "best saltwater reel" at a tradeshow in Europe ( February 2017).

And the prices? Absolutely incredible! Check out DAM Quick Combat 7000 or DAM Quick Combat 10000 for further details.

If you want even better, then an absolute beast of a reel the SUNSET Sunfight SW6506 FD High End Big Fish reel should be on your list. At 10Kg+ drag force, super thick stainless steel shaft and 6 double sealed Japanese ball bearings, this is a reel that will last forever. 

Now on free spools one.

I absolutely love the free spool/baitrunner reels. Why? Because you can pre-select how tight the drag you want to be; then you set the lever, from completely free spool movement to fine micro-adjustments for slight-medium tight spools.

When the fish is on, you turn the handle and the lever slaps automatically (or you just flip the lever and hook the fish..) on it's closed position, thus the reel becoming at that point a front drag reel in combat. Absolute marvels as it allows you to catch the finickiest fish there is, as it will take the bait without feeling the tension in the line.

Do we have any of these available?

You betcha.

I would recommend you have a look at a "Big Pit/ Big Fish" reel, such as DAM Quick Dragger 560 FS.

For any other small and medium sizes, you should not disregard BALZER Alegra BR, as these are fantastically looking and excellent quality reels. Better still, a reel that one should look at investing in, should be the exceptional DAM Quick Endura 555FS.

There are certain subtleties when it comes to these types of reels. So what makes a good spinning reel?

First of all, what type of fishing are you planning to do? Are you targeting flatties or perhaps some whiting or bream? Or are you going for salmon or tailor, even mulloway? Going after GTs or kings? What about tuna?

Want to fish from shore/ beach or from jetties or rocks? Using a boat? All of these will determine whether you need one reel or another.

Let's start with the obvious. You do not need a huge reel to go after whiting or mullet. You need a small(ish) reel, say in the 100-300 size (or 10-30 or 1000-3000). What you need to look at is if the spool is made from graphite/carbon or aluminium/other metal. The later will be more expensive but more durable as well. I would also look at the housing- if again carbon/plastic/metal or hybrid. Metal is heavier and more expensive. For smaller sizes though, I would go carbon or hybrid because weight is also important. After all, we are trying to keep our equipment as light as possible.

Another thing to look for is how easy you can adjust the drag/brake. Whether front drag or rear drag, you want to micro-adjust your reel when in fight so it gives you the better chance to winning the battle. When it comes to ball bearings people often say that more is better. I would have to state that the ball bearing quality is also very important. And when it comes to how many, I would think that a minimum of three (and if sealed/double sealed even better) is required in a good quality reel. Speed is a factor that will determine how specialized for a specific type of fishing your reel is. Generally speaking, a 4.0:1 to 5.3:1 is a normal gear ratio. Anything that goes in the 6.0:1 to higher is considered a high-speed reel (the number before the colon denotes the rotations the spool makes per one complete turn of the reel's handle. So, a 4.0:1 ratio means the spool revolves 4.0 times with each handle turn).

One last thing to look for when selecting a reel is the handle. If price is important, I would look at having a hard plastic/PTFE or a carbon handle. The bigger the fish and more complex the fight becomes the handle needs to be made of aluminium/other hardened metal to be able to withstand the crank power required and not to snap (that's what you would look in some bigger reels). For smaller ones, it doesn’t matter that much, really if you know what you’re doing. Accidents can happen though, and a hard plastic/carbon handle could snap if you drop the reel or step onto it, whilst the aluminium one will withstand the test of time.

For the budget-conscious fisherman targeting smaller fish, I would recommend not to get passed our excellent BALZER (Germany)Tactics Hype 3300RD or either CARSON (Italy) HERCULES FD30 or CARSON (Italy) DIABLO 30. Any of these will cost less than 50$ and with free shipping Australia wide, they are a real bargain.

For those wanting nothing but the best in this category, I would recommend to pay a closer look at our top-of-the-range DAM (Germany) QUICK RETRO 100 FD or other two exceptional reels: the outstanding HERON (Italy) Crack-1 reels CH1000 METAL BODY or the similar all-metal BALZER (Germany) Metallica ACE 1030. All of them are excellent choices.

Moving on from these (smaller) size reels. 

At Adore Tackle we call these next category “medium sized” spinning reels. These are the 400-500 (40-50 or 4000-5000) sizes. Such reel will usually allow you to put in some 100-150 m of 0.40 or 0.50mm. People often opt for lower diameter mono when filling these reels as they are used when “finesse” is not necessarily that importan, when we target more species than one (species that come in different sizes too), when we want to alternate artificial lures with some fresh/frozen baits. In other words, these ranges will pretty much get you “covered”. You can use them to catch anything, really from bream to tailor to salmon and medium-sized mulloway. When it comes to these reels, it is important to note that apart from all the other important features we have mentioned before, it becomes increasingly necessary to have a spool that allows for longer casts and improves line lay, if you plan to cast long distances (say more than 60-75 m). It also becomes important the shaft thickness and material built. 

These are the most universal reels out there, and if you really need to have just one you should get one in this range to cover all your fishing needs. I should also make a note that most reel handles in this range are made out of aluminium/other metals to withstand increased pressure when fighting an aggressive fish.

There are some very interesting offers on our website for those who want to buy a cheap reel that will last them more than one fishing trip. One would have to be TEBEN JET 500 4+1BB (comes with 5 ball bearings in size 500/5000) or the CARSON DIABLO 40 5+1 BB (6 ball bearings). Both are less than 50$, come with 2 years’ warranty and free next day shipping. That is really hard to beat!

If money’s not the issue, Adore Tackle offers some cracker deals on most our German Fishing reels in this range. Deals that won't break the bank either!

You don’t need to look further than something like BALZER (Germany) MK Adventure Spin 640FD or perhaps the hybrid state-of-the-art BALZER (Germany) MK Adventure Hybrid 8400FD or any of the two of our DAM (Germany reels): DAM QUICK DRAGGER 550 FD or DAM QUICK AMMO 450 FD.

…More next time

In this day and age we are spoiled by the sheer offering that's out there. Pretty much with everything. Call it food or clothes or...rods and reels. The later is a complex proposition. 

What reel should you chose then? 

Does it depend on what fish you target? Or perhaps on style of fishing? 

Would you require long casts or perhaps the bait to be taken freely by your target species?

So, let's start with the obvious. 

There are effectively four major types of fishing reels. 

One, let's call them sidecasts. Those would be effectively fly fishing reels or good-ol' Alveys. The biggest advantage of these reels is that you are in permanent contact with your fish and you can drop the reel in sand or water and they will take a beating before being damaged in any way shape or form. As good as these reels are, they have many drawbacks as well. They are nothing more than an equivalent round spool line positioned sideways. In case of fly fishing reel, the line is kept off the reel and manually thrown with the fly and the reel just gets the line in, whilst the rod does all the work.  It is rather complex to use such a reel to catch a big kingfish or mulloway, and while there are people that love and swear by them, but today there are many more modern reels that will do a better job. 

Then we have baitcasting reels. They are absolutely loved by many anglers fishing for bass, flatties or barra. They work a treat when using artificial baits and lures, either plastic grubs, worms, shads or small cranckbaits and wobblers. These reels have to be used with special rods (they have a "trigger" on the opposite side of the rods' reel seat), and the vast majority have very high gear ratios, particularly suited for fast retrieve-action.

Bait Casting Reel Example

Let's move on and we have the trolling or multiplier, or else known overcast reels. These reels are used when targeting the big monsters of the deep. When no other reel will hold enough line and will have enough power to lad the beast, these reels will do. There are a few issues that we need to keep in mind before committing to such a reel. One has to do with the fact that you cannot cast with a trolling reel. All you do is let the bait drift ( and manually releasing line behind the boat until you're happy with how the bait's been positioned) or you use it for very big depths/ vertical jigging. Or you manually plant the bait using other means. But we'll talk about these some other time. 

Trolling Reel Example

Which leads us to spinning reels.

In our opinion they are the most versatile reels out there. So, how do you select which one you need?

First of all, what fish do you target and what sort of type of fishing you are planning to do will ultimately dictate what sort of spinning reel you'll need. For example, if you target bream, whiting, mullet or flathead (as well as let's say Mangrove Jacks, or callop, sooty grunter, etc), you'll need a reel that sits in the 10-40 category (or size 100-400 or 20-40, etc). That will allow you to use some 100 m of 0.15mm line or for the 40/400 size reels something like 135 m of 0.35 mm or 100 m of 0.40 mm. I would never use 0.40mm, but more likely something like 0.20-0.25 mm (if using a mono line) and perhaps 0.10-0.18mm (for braid).

What type of drag now? Well, to answer that correctly we need to first have a look at how many types of spinning reels are there. There are front drag and rear drag spinning reels, as well as free-spool or baitrunner spinning reels. The later has a mechanism that allows a fish to inconspicuously take the bait without feeling the line resistance. Once the bait is taken, a fisherman can flip and engage the mechanism thus becoming pretty much a rear drag reel and fighting the fish like you normally would. 

Free Spool Spinning Reel Example  

Front drag reels (Front Drag Reel Example) have the brake mechanism in front of the spool (so you can tighten or loosen the line), and the rear drag ones have the brake adjustment wheel extended at the back-end of the reel.

Both types of reel are widely used, with selecting front or rear drag being a matter of preference for most people.

There are certain limitations when trying to manufacture big rear-drag reels (Rear Drag Reel Example), and the biggest I have seen are size 60 (or 600) as rear-drag reels.

...More with our next blog post...

In today's world one might get confused about what different manufacturers call their fishing rod carbon blanks. Some call them 24 or 30 Carbon Ton. Others High Modulus or Intermediate Modulus, or 36 Million Modulus carbon. Whilst others call them IM6, IM7 or even IM12. 

So, what are those exactly?

What is carbon modulus?

First of all, carbon modulus is not a thread count and more exactly modulus equates to stiffness. The higher the carbon modulus, the stiffer the respective fishing rod will be. Another property linked to modulus is material’s measured strength. An acceptable strain rate for a fishing rod is approximately 700,000 or thereabouts. 

As the modulus increase, the strain rate would decrease, as such rods with a higher modulus blank are more prone to failure because of brittleness. To overcome this, companies such as SPORTEX and COLMIC, and other high end companies special engineer their rods to incorporate higher modulus blanks. This will increase the price of that rod. Equally, less known companies that manufacture somewhere in South East Asia using high modulus blanks might offer cheaper rods, but also brittle and prone to breakage.

What is IM rating?

Now, the IM rating. Apparently, that is a little bit of a myth and a marketing pseudo-tech spec. In reality, the IM rating a customer sees on a blank is somewhat of a replacement term for the universal standards. There truly is no such thing as an IM6, IM7, IM 8, IM12 etc. blank. 

The term "IM" seems to have come from a graphite/carbon company that was making different blanks for the fishing tackle industry, and on the sixth attempt or something they made one that they were happy with hence the term IM6. 

Since then, the trademark has passed on that name and some of the rod companies have continued using the term, claiming their blanks as being IM6, IM7, IM12, etc.

The true rating of graphite is Million Modulus (US standard) or Tonnage (world standard). 

Even million modulus term has been somewhat used loosely over the last few years; but, generally gives a close comparison. Tonnage is the one remaining rating nobody has used any different than what they supposed to.

If you compared Tonnage to the old IM6 from the first company, the 24 Ton blank is a fair comparison. More often than not, either you see 24 Ton or 24 TC or IM6 carbon printed on a carbon rod. They usually mean the same.

There was no IM7 or IM8 or IM12 so it's harder to compare; however, similar to that marketing the true tonnage gets higher and lighter. So, the 30 Ton blank is lighter than the 24, 36 lighter than a 30, 40 lighter than 36 and 55 lighter than 40 and so on.

Generally speaking, a prestige German company such as BALZER uses IM rating not to confuse its customers, but because traditionally they’ve always done it this way and they don’t want to change. In their books, IM6 is 24Ton carbon, IM7 is 30Ton, IM8 is 36Ton and IM12 is 40Ton or 50-60Ton (depending on the range, and if they use nano-technology or not).

However, that doesn’t mean that everyone uses the right terminology when they apply the stickers on their fishing rods.

You need to be very careful these days.

If you want a cheap rod and you don’t care how long it’ll last or if you’d like to fish with for hours on end or if you aren’t interested on how it will perform when fighting a fish, then you do not need to read any longer. Just go to your local BigW or Kmart and you will find what you need.

If, however you want to know what rod you need to buy so it will last you for years to come, to trust when fighting the “big one” and be easy to use and a pleasure to fish with, depending the circumstances then you should consider a couple more points as per below.

…NOTE: We will have another couple of Blog Posts when we will discuss different types of rods, actions and when or where we should use each…

So, what you the best carbon rod blanks?

First off, I would look for some prestige brands. Adore Tackle proudly represents two major rod builders:

• SPORTEX and
• COLMIC.

SPORTEX manufactures in Germany or Korea some extraordinary rods using Helicore carbon technology for their blanks and some ultra-high end Japanese/ German or Korean High Modulus blanks that are then engineered and rolled to create nothing short of masterpieces. The blanks are individually numbered and each rod has a 10 year warranty. Because of their technology, each rod is slightly different than the previous one, as such it can be tracked all the way to the respective batch that belonged to. That is a major difference compared to mass manufacturers from SE Asia.

COLMIC is an Italian brand that manufactures its rods exclusively in Italy or Japan using exclusively Toray carbon, Aerospace carbon fibres, etc. Some COLMIC rods are legendary in Brazil, US or Portugal, France and Spain (such as the ZERO SEVEN Surf rods) and cost thousands of dollars. Each COLMIC rod is nothing short of amazing and they back all their products by a 5-year warranty as well.

Just hold a COLMIC rod and compare that against other brands in the market today and you will see and understand the difference.

So, we covered now COLMIC and SPORTEX that use carbon ranging from 24Ton to 80Ton, Helicore technology, German/Korean made (SPORTEX) or Japanese Toray, ULAF Carbon, Italy/Japan made (COLMIC). 

We recommend these brands when looking at a high-end carbon rod.

Other high quality carbon blanks

If you want a high-quality rod and you want to look passed the above, then you should look no further than D.A.M, BALZER or any from the SERT range.

D.A.M. offers tradition from 1875, German engineering and some high-quality rods that are all 24Ton to 40Ton graphite made on high quality carbon blanks, usually from Japan. D.A.M. was one of the first to have introduced nano-technology in their rod blanks, and one D.A.M. nanoflex rod test has been viewed by hundreds of thousands of people on Youtube:

BALZER uses the IM6-IM12 carbon rating on their blanks. However, that being said BALZER uses Japanese Toray carbon on their high-end ranges as well as nano-technology on some of its products.

SERT has SUNSET (for saltwater fishing), Sakura (predatory fishing), Garbolino (trout, salmon and lure fishing), Katusha (European catfish and Big Game fishing), BIWAA ( hard and soft lures fishing) and Sert (no frills fishing).

Garbolino is the world benchmark in trout and salmon fishing using the VIPER technology for rod blanks that was breveted by Garbolino. The same technology is applied to the other “sister-brands”, under the name Carbon “Technifibre”. The 24Ton to 40Ton carbon confirms the blank quality and engineering is applied on top. All these rods are manufactured in Europe or Japan and Asia, depending on rod range.

Last, but not least- CARSON. They do manufacture their rods in SE ASIA, but are using 24Ton to 40Ton carbon sourced from Korea or Japan for enhanced quality.

Concluding on all of these-make sure you understand what you want and what you need. The higher the carbon content, more brittle the blank will be.

24 Ton carbon is the standard for normal good, excellent quality blanks.

Going over 36 or 40Ton carbon implies risks and we strongly recommend you look at high end rod builders when you look for high modulus, fast action, ultra-light blank.

Fortunately, we’ve got you covered at Adore Tackle.

Because sometimes, only the best will do.

Stay safe,

Adore Tackle Team